| Caring
for your bird
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Seed-eaters
and Budgerigars in particular...
For some people birds are ideal pets, being decorative to look at and
inexpensive to care for, but a caged bird on its own can be lonely and
bored. This can lead to destructive habits such as feather-picking. Another
bird for company is a good idea.
CHOOSING YOUR BIRD:
Special birds have special needs. There is a vast number of species of
cage birds, many of which must be treated specifically. For example, some
birds eat only seeds, others only fruit and nectar. Some eat meat, others
need live food such as maggots - and even the seed-eaters have special
requirements for certain types of seeds.
Another difference
is in their bathing habits. Whilst some love to bathe in water, others,
such as quail, like a dust bath.
Before you acquire
your bird(s) it is important that you learn about their special needs.
Your local bird society and your library will be the best sources of information.
A healthy bird should
be alert and observant, with a good appetite and bright, watchful eyes.
Its feathers should be luxuriant, with a good sheen and held close to
the body. Beak and claws should not be overgrown and there should be no
encrustations on the body. A sick bird will droop on its perch, be silent,
fluff out its feathers and will sleep most of the time with its head tucked
under its wing. Breathing may be difficult and its motions loose. Observe
your bird carefully and seek veterinary advice when necessary.
ACCOMMODATION:
The Aviary: If you are able to keep your birds in an outside aviary, they
will have more freedom of movement and will be far happier. A suitable
size would be 12ft to 18 ft long, 6 ft high and 5 ft wide. Your local
library will probably have books on aviary design, which you could adapt
to suit your circumstances and your pocket, and of course incorporate
your own ideas.
The cage: If you are
unable to provide an aviary then choose your cage with care. It is to
be your birds home and its selection is of prime importance. Ensure that
both cage and contents are easy to keep clean.
To fly is a basic
right of any bird, so the cage must be as large as possible. Horizontal
space is more important than height as although birds jump up and down
on to perches they do not fly up and down. Aminimum sized cage would be
2-ft long x 2-ft high x 21 inches wide. Wooden cages are suitable for
most birds, but not for the psittachines (or parrot-type birds, such as
budgerigars) who love to chew and will easily destroy woodwork.
A cage with a wire
front but with solid back and sides will give your bird some privacy and
protection from draughts, while still permitting plenty of light and fresh
air. Never paint the wire as parrot-type birds crawl around the wire with
their feet and beaks and can easily get poisoned from painted wire.
SITING THE
CAGE:
Position the cage in a well lit, sunny room where the birds will have
frequent human contact. Should the cage be placed outside on a fine day,
care must be taken to provide adequate shade and protection from predators.
Avoid draughty situations at all times.
Remember birds are daytime creatures and need to sleep at night, so during
the day give them company but ensure they have peace and quiet at night.
Cover the cage - and do not leave it next to the television or stereo!
Cage Floors must be
covered. - Special sanded paper can be bought from pet shops, or you can
use grit, clean sand or newspaper. If using newspaper, keep grit in a
little dish in the cage as it is a necessary and important part of a birds
diet.
Perches - Perches
in various shapes and sizes will keep the birds feet well toned. One round,
one oval and one natural tree branch is ideal. Perches must be taken out
once a month, scrubbed clean and then dipped in boiling water. This keeps
away mites (which are almost invisible) that annoy birds and can be dangerous
to their health.
Stress affects birds, who thrive on a regular routine of eating and sleeping.
Being creatures of habit they may take time to adapt to changes of any
sort whether it be a new home, new food or a new toy on their cage. Bear
this in mind when you first bring your bird home. Allow it to settle in
quietly, and if necessary, cover part of the cage to give added privacy.
EXERCISE
All birds should be allowed to exercise out of the cage on a regular basis,
but close supervision is vital. Before releasing your bird, cover windows
and mirrors, close the doors and screen off the fireplace. Keep other
pets out of the room. Most birds will return to their cage after a while
to rest on their perch.
HANDLING
Accustom your bird to being handled so that you can look for signs of
illhealth. Begin by handling it gently in the cage. Extend your ïindex
finger alongside a perch, raising it under the birds breast until he hops
on. Move your hand slowly around the cage, transferring your pet from
perch to perch, making soft encouraging noises. Soon it will become tame
enough to be removed from the cage in this way. It is a good idea to train
your bird to accept handling before letting it out of its cage.
FOOD
All birds have a high metabolic rate and must never run short of food
and water, both of which should be renewed every day and empty seed husks
(or ïfluff) removed. Birds drop the empty husks back into the dish
so although it may appear to be full, there is no whole seed left. Greens
are an important part of a birds diet and if living wild they would have
a choice of many greens and know instinctively what they should eat. Wash
greens well to remove any sprays or pesticides.
Birdseed may be ïsprouted and fed to your birds. To do this soak
seed overnight, rinse well and leave to germinate in a warm dark place.
Good seed will sprout in three or four days. You can also feed fresh spinach,
celery, lettuce, chickweed and any seeding grass. Pip or stone fruits
may be fed and millet sprays are always appreciated. Remove greens or
fruit as soon as it has lost its freshness.
BOREDOM
Boredom can be a problem for birds who spend much of their time in cages.
Give your bird adequate attention, talk to it often. Provide some entertainment
such as mirrors, bells, ladders and so on, but leave enough room for the
bird to move around.
If necessary, give your bird variety by changing its toys from time to
time. Do not worry if your bird does not use a new item immediately. Budgies,
particularly, are very conservative and it may take them several weeks
to ïeye off a new thing in the cage before they touch it.
ESPECIALLY
ABOUT BUDGERIGARS
A buderigars basic diet should comprise specially prepared seed mixtures
available from pet shops, as well as fruit and green vegetables. Cuttlefish
bone or oystershell grit are essential for trace minerals as well as ordinary
grit for crop function. Provide fresh water daily.
BREEDING
In the wild, budgerigars live in flocks, so a single pair is unlikely
to produce young. A minimm of three pairs is usually necessary if successful
breeding is to take place.
SOMETHING
TO CHEW ON
Allowing a bird to chew on wood or bark has several benefits. It helps
keep its beak in trim; it can sometimes be a source of trace minerals
and it helps relieve boredom.
TALKING
A lone budgerigar that enjoys close contact with its owner will often
learn to talk. Begin when your bird is 6 to 9 weeks old, repeating the
same word over and over. Once one word is learned, use new words or short
phrases. If your bird has not learned to talk by the time it is 6 months
old it probably never will.BATHS: Budgies love them and need them. Provide
water in a separate, shallow dish and remove after use. A lettuce leaf
floated on tepid water may encourage your bird if at first it is apprehensive.
COMMON PROBLEMS
Diarrhoea or scouring may be caused by an excess of greens or through
contaminated or mouldy food. Another common cause is starvation caused
by owners failing to remove the husks off top of the seed container. Mites
are small parasites that feed on the birds skin and blood, causing great
irritation. Your bird may rub, scratch or pull out its feathers. If you
suspect mite infestation, consult your veterinarian. Growths on or under
the skin are common.
Seek veterinary advice at the first signs of illness. Also if your birds
beak or claws become overgrown and require trimming.
Healthy, lone budgerigars
may regurgitate their food. This should not be mistaken for vomiting.
It is a courtship ritual and will often happenwhile the bird is looking
at itself in a mirror.
WE SPEAK FOR
THOSE THAT CANNOT SPEAK FOR THEMSELVES |
